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Housing
Let's begin here. Please have your glider's cage set up and ready BEFORE you bring your new pet home. You have three main
options when it comes to cages: build one, buy a wire cage, or buy a reptarium (mesh cage).
Let's look at wire cages. Firstly, make sure the metal isn't galvanized. Galvanized wire causes UTI (urinary tract infections)
in gliders. Secondly, I suggest a cage measuring no less than 30 x 18 x 36. However, the bigger the better. All of my gliders
are in cages that are much bigger than the dimensions given. You want your glider to have room to glide and jump and play!
Reptariums can be a great choice for a suggie owner on a budget. They are very affordable and come in a lot of different
sizes. They can make a really big cage for not a lot of money. As with anything, there are a few issues with reptariums. It
is harder to hang toys, water bottles, pouches, wheels, etc. on a mesh cage. You have to be creative about it. There are a
lot of suggestions at www.sugarglider.net. Another issue is that some gliders like to chew on the mesh. If a glider chews
a hole in the mesh, they can escape or swallow harmful pieces of the mesh. As long as your glider is not a chewer, these cages
can work out great.
Building your own cage can be the best of both worlds. I do not suggest wood when building your own cage. It really soaks
up the smell. However, you can use a few coats of shellac to help with the problem. Building a nice wire cage for your fuzzy
friend can be very rewarding to both you and your glider. You can make it whatever size and/or shape you choose. You get to
pick your own budget. I've built two cages so far and they were the cheapest and most creative cages I have had. However,
for me, nothing compares to a large professionally built cage that will last for years.
DO NOT USE AQUARIUMS AS HOUSING.
| Built Using Plans Found Online |
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| Notice the Multiple Pouches & Toys |
Accessories For Cage
Now that you have a cage, fill it up with stuff!
1. At least one cage pouch. Your glider will sleep away most of the day in there. This is also their security spot. They
need a place to hide and feel safe.
2. Food bowl/water bottle.
3. TOYS! There are so many glider toys out there. Just hop online and go searching. Fleece toys, plastic toys, glider
bridges, ropes, ladders, mirrors, tunnels, tubes, hammocks, etc. There are endless amounts of fun things you can add to any
cage. Gliders like branches too, but make sure they are safe and not treated with chemicals. Some wood branches are toxic
to gliders, so double check any that you are thinking of adding to the cage.
4. Glider safe wheel. I highly suggest the Wodent Wheel with nail-o-matic. The nail-o-matic is sort of like sandpaper
that fits into the wheel. As your glider runs, his nails get buffed down. This really helps keep nails under control. Go here
for wheels and toys! http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glider-toys-list.htm You can also try http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glider-toys-list.htm
5. Cage cover. This is not required, but gliders do like to go potty while climbing the side of the cage and they are
notorious for throwing food. A cage cover (can just be a sheet) will help protect your walls.
Diet
There are dozens of diets out there. I am going to keep this section simplified by only showing my glider's diet. If you would
like to see other diet options, try looking here: http://www.sugarglider.net/links/pages/Glider_Care/Diet___Nutrition/index.html
My gliders are all on the BML (Bourbon's Modified Leadbeater's) Diet.
Here are the ingredients:
- 1/2 cup honey
- 1 egg (scrambled or boiled)
- 1/4 cup apple juice
- 1 4 oz bottle of premixed Gerber juice with yogurt (you can substitute 2 oz of plain yogurt and 2 oz of mixed fruit
juice
- 1 tsp of Rep-Cal Herptivite vitamin supplement
- 2 tsp of Rep-Cal Calcium Supplement non-phosphorus with Vit. D3
- 2 2 1/2 oz jars of Stage 1 or 2 Gerber chicken baby food
- 1/4 wheat germ
- 1/2 cup dry Gerber mixed baby cereal (can use Gerber oatmeal baby cereal)
Please do not exclude or substitute any ingredients on this list unless specified. For more details about this diet please
visit here: http://www.sugargliderinfo.com/NutritionAndDiets/leadbeat.html
I give EACH glider 1 tablespoon of BML, 1 tablespoon of fresh fruits (canned is too sugary), 1 tablespoon of fresh veggies
(canned has too much sodium), and they get a few live mealworms for extra protein.
VEGGIE RELISH
1 32 oz bag mixed veggies, defrosted (birds eye classic is best, no limas, no salt)
4 oz white grape juice or gerber fruit juice w/ yogurt.
4 tablespoons honey
FRUIT SMOOTHIE
5- 6 lbs mixed fruit
4 oz juice
2 - 4 tbsp honey
1/2 cup Dannon French Vanilla Yogurt
I make a double batch of everything listed above to serve to my five sugar gliders for several weeks. I pour the relish
and smoothie into ice trays (double batch takes four trays total) and then freeze. Once frozen, I remove from the trays and
store in air tight containers. This makes serving them much easier. One ice cube feeds is two servings (which is perfect for
a cage with two gliders in it).
The BML mix is poured directly into an air tight container and frozen. It is soft enough to cut with a knife and doesn't
need to be put into trays although some prefer to keep with the ice tray method to keep all serving sizes equal.
| This is everything prepared and ready to be stored |
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| Veggie Relish, BML mix, Fruit Smoothie |
Bonding/Socialization/Playtime
This part, to me, is the most important and rewarding part of owning a glider.
When you first bring that eight week old joey home, you are going to want to cuddle, kiss, and caress that little fuzz-butt
to pieces! Resist the urge! Many gliders react positively to being put in their cage and LEFT ALONE for the first two or three
days. Visit the cage and talk to them. Offer treats through the bars. Try to move at the glider's pace rather than your own.
I also know that it is really tempting to show off that new ball of fur to all of your friends and family. Again, resist the
urge. Keep the joey with you in a pouch, pocket, or bra. Make sure s/he feels safe while with you. When s/he gets older you
can show them off all you want! For now, focus on gaining their trust.
Some tips:
1. Leave them alone in their cage for a few days and let them adjust. Gliders really rely on their sense of smell and
when everything changes, it can be unsettling to them. They need time to soak it all in.
2. Wear an old t-shirt to bed for a few nights. Then, place the shirt in the cage or over the cage so that the new glider
can adjust more quickly to your scent. I have found that this tactic really helps with rescues.
3. Do not chase your glider around the cage trying to catch it. That is just terrifying to such a small critter! If you
are having problems getting your glider to come out of the cage, wait for the suggie to climb into it's cage pouch and then
just remove the pouch with the glider inside. When in doubt, use bribes. Gliders absolutely love treats. There is no shame
in coaxing a glider over to you with a mealie. :-)
4. Remember, it takes PATIENCE. This is key to bonding with your glider. I have bonded with gliders as quick as one week
and it has also taken me up to one year to bond with a glider. I have been on both ends. Each glider is different, so take
your time and move slowly. It's worth the wait!
5. Carry your glider with you. Toss on a pouch and let your glider nap in there while you do dishes and laundry or sit
online checking out websites! All of that time is great bonding time. My gliders love to lay in their pouch on my chest while
I read out loud. This lets them get used to my voice and scent all at once. For you ladies out there, try bra-training your
glider. I love carrying a glider or two right down my shirt. I put in one of their tiny blankets (piece of fleece will do
fine) and then let them climb in. It's usually a simple process that they take to quickly. I have several bra babies. I think
they enjoy the snugness and hearing a heartbeat.
Gliders need playtime too. How would you like it if you could NEVER leave your house? No fun, huh? It isn't fun for your
suggie either. It doesn't matter how cool that cage is or how big it is. Sugar gliders need playtime. It's crucial to their
health and well-being. You are going to have to let them out for at least one hour every single day. I suggest no less than
3-5 hours out of cage time with at least one hour being actual playtime or tent-time. Tent time is the time I spend in a kiddy
tent with my gliders. It's a wonderful thing to have at home! They are cheap (less than $20) and you and glider can sit inside
of it while they play. They have no choice but to use you as a toy/tree! It's great for bonding!
| Creative Use Of Cat House |
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| Dot Loves Her Playhouse |
Introducing Sugar Gliders
First of all, make sure to quarantine the new glider for at least 30 days just in case. After that, you can place their cages
nearer to one another. Make sure they aren't too close or fights could break out between the bars! Soon after, you can begin
swapping their pouches so they get used to each other scents. Once you feel comfortable with it, you may try an introduction.
Here is how I did it with both pairs: After quarantine and meet and greet time, I finally introduce my gliders. I lay a glider
safe blanket in the bathtub. I bring in both glider in their own pouch. I keep a towel handy in case a fight breaks out and
I must intervene (has never happened though). Then I let them meet at their own pace. Both of my pairs went together easily
on the first meeting.
When you first put them together, make sure no serious fighting occurs. You need to keep an eye on them just to be safe.
Some glider owners feel it is best to seperate them while you are sleeping/out of the house. I have never had any quarrels
that weren't typical from my gliders.
In extreme cases, I've heard of putting a dab of vanilla extract on each glider. This way, they smell alike and all they
can really smell is vanilla. Because they are so scent driven, this can trick them into thinking that the other glider is
really a life long buddy! I do caution you as I have never tried this method personally.
Gender affects ability to introduce gliders and trios and colonies can be tricky. Here are some choices and a list of
some pros and cons for each for you to consider when considering sugar gliders.
Female + Female
- preferably sisters raised together
-good pairing
Male + Male
- preferably neutered brothers raised together (good pairing)
-intact males raised from a young age may also make a good pair
-can be difficult/impossible introducing intact males once older
-there has been success in introducing neutered males as older gliders
-even gliders that are raised together may turn aggressive toward each other when they get older or if a female is introduced
Male + Female
-best pairing
-they will breed, so have your male fixed unless you want babies (this process is quick and relatively cheap in most areas)
Male + Female + Female
-works most of the time when done correctly
-best to introduce one male to two established females (it helps if they are raised together from a young age or sisters)
-they will breed, so fix the male unless you want babies.
-there can be issues of joeys being pulled in trios of this nature
Colonies of Male + Female
-usually works if all females or all FIXED males
-usually works if it is a family unit with FIXED males (no inbreeding wanted)
| Leonidas & Dilios |
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| Brothers |
Breeding
When considering whether or not to breed sugar gliders, there are many things to consider. Are you willing to risk the life
of your female? Can you handle the loss of joeys? Are you prepared, willing, and able to hand-raise a joey (or two) if the
parents decide to reject? Can you handle the heartache of cannibalism?
I am not here to decide who should or should not breed. I am not here to encourage the breeding of sugar gliders. This
information is simply here for those that are considering the possibility of breeding or those that currently breed and have
questions.
I do HIGHLY encourage anyone that is even thinking about breeding to own a sugar glider as a PET ONLY for at least one
full year. You will learn more during that year than you ever would reading online or studying some book. These amazing animals
can live up to 15 years in captivity! One year is a tiny commitment compared to that. I believe that every person that breeds
sugar gliders should love sugar gliders. After one year, you'll know.
Let's begin...
Females reach sexual maturity around 6 months of age, while males may mature earlier around 4 months of age. This varies
per glider and is not predictable. Males will develop a bald spot in the center of their forehead. This is a scent gland.
He will also develop a scent gland on the chest.
| Gizmo |
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| Notice the bald spot. |
You may also see a 'pom' drop in the males. Although both are most likely capable of breeding at age 6 months, I suggest waiting
until the gliders are between 10-12 months before breeding. This also give YOU a chance to learn your gliders. All breeding
gliders should be PETS first.
Diet is very important to an expecting couple, especially your little mommy. Visit this discussion on diets effecting
breeding: http://www.sugarglider.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/11312/an/6#Post11312
Because of their unique reproductive systems, it's common for the mother to have one or two joey's. The female sugar glider
will give birth to live young after a 16 day gestation period. Any babies born must then make it to the pouch and latch onto
one of four nipples where it will remain in the pouch for roughly another 60 days. Resist the urge to peek in the pouch or
handling your female roughly. Should a joey detach from the nipple, they can't get back on and will die. You'll know they
are close to coming out of pouch once tails, feet, and bottoms start to make appearances.
| Sprocket |
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| Look at the little leg! |
Sugar gliders are amazing parents in most cases. Females will diligently feed and groom the babies and dad will take his turn
baby-sitting while mom runs in the wheel and eats. I've seen my boy bring food to the pouch for nursing mom. Males play a
huge role in rearing the young. It's important that mom has a chance to take a break and that dad gets the opportunity to
bond to his babies.
| Gizmo |
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| Daddy carries baby. |
Once the baby or babies fully detach from the nipple, they are considered out of pouch or OOP. This is usually where we start
counting their age...much like a birthday. At this point, depending on your relationship with mom, you may begin handling
the joey's. Start slow, only a few minutes at a time the first few days. Do not upset the parents. You do not want to risk
rejection or cannibalism. This is where knowing your gliders will really come in handy.
Over time, you may increase the time you spend with the little ones. You can teach them how to use a pouch or how to be
comfortable in a pocket or down a shirt. Go easy, try not to frighten them, and follow their clues.
| Twins Almost Out of Pouch (OOP) |
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| They are still attached to the nipple. |
Sexing joey's is relatively easy once you know what to look for. At the moment, I've lost my pictures that show gender. For
now, a description will have to do.
Females will have a vertical slit on their belly. This is their pouch. Males will have a dot on the belly that will resemble
a bellybutton. This will drop into the 'pom' or testes later at sexual maturity.
For step-by-step growth development, please see this wonderful website: http://www.petsugargliders.com/sggrowth.php
Sugar gliders will naturally begin weaning their babies around 6 weeks old. They should be nearly or completely weaned
by 8-9 weeks of age and eating a solid diet on their own. I have heard of the weaning process taking up to 12 weeks. Some
breeders hold their joey's until this age before adopting them to new homes, however, the safe age is 8 weeks. Any respectable
breeder will wait until their babies are 8 weeks old before letting them leave mom and dad. Letting a joey leave too early
could be fatal.
I've mentioned a few scare possibilities. All of which are true. I had one pair in the past that cannibalized a set of
twins just a few days before they should have been OOP. It was devastating. I've read many stories of people finding body
parts of babies in the cage or rejected joey's left to die in the corner of a cage. These things do happen and must be carefully
considered. Breeding is not a choice to make lightly. The most breeding pairs I've ever had at one time is TWO and that was
a handful.
If you are faced with hand-raising a rejected joey(s), refer to this topic: http://www.sugarglider.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/69796#Post69796
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